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Discover the charms of Old San Juan

It is a pleasure to discover or rediscover the stories behind every corner, cobblestone, church, or structure in the capital

April 23, 2024 - 11:00 PM

Archival note
This content was published more than 8 months ago.
The Institute of Puerto Rican Culture’s main building. (WANDA LIZ VEGA)

Lee la historia en español aquí.

To walk through the streets of Old San Juan is to reconnect with the political, military, religious, and cultural history of the Borinquen archipelago. The “walled city” possesses a special charm that invites you to enjoy its architecture on an interesting tour that can be completed in two or three hours.

There is a variety of activities to engage in depending on to the visitor’s interests thanks to the richness of its buildings constructed between the 16th and 19th centuries, although there is evidence of inhabitants before the Spanish colonial period.

Others prefer to take advantage of the moment to discover the culinary and social aspects of the “ciudad de las losas” (city of tiles), which, because to its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, offers the perfect environment for family or friends to come together, fly kites, and enjoy the music, artisanal crafts, and the spectacular bay landscape.

Ernie Xavier Rivera Collazo, a tour guide from Isla Caribe, recommends starting the tour at Casa Blanca, which “is the first building constructed on the islet of Old San Juan, and there are still parts of that infrastructure dating back to 1521.”

“It’s the oldest Spanish colonial structure, it was the residence of Governor Juan Ponce de León, although he never lived there, his family and descendants did. It was also a kind of fortress used to defend Puerto Rico and San Juan from enemy invasions because it’s next to the bay; it’s a beautiful place,” emphasized Rivera, who is an archaeologist and history teacher.

The military history is on display at La Fortaleza, Castillo San Felipe del Morro, Castillo San Cristóbal, and Cuartel de Ballajá.

“The political, military, and religious power was located in San Juan. There are other structures that were built, such as Castillo San Felipe del Morro and the walls that surround the islet of San Juan. It’s called morro because it’s the location of the castle, which sits on a morro, a cliff overlooking the sea,” he clarified.

“Another important military structure is La Fortaleza, which is the governor’s residence today, and it has served this purpose for centuries. It was built to protect the bay of San Juan. However, if it was meant to protect the bay, by the time ships reached La Fortaleza, they were already inside the bay. That’s why they started the construction of Castillo San Felipe del Morro, which is at the mouth to the bay of San Juan,” he added.

For those interested in the topic of religion, a visit to the San José Church is recommended. It is regarded as one of the oldest structures in the Americas, with records dating back to 1520.That church is spectacular; the vault where the main altar is located, if you look at the ceiling and you realize it’s a neogothic vault, meaning it’s a Gothic style but modern. That makes it unique; there’s no other neogothic vault like it in the Americas. In Europe, yes, but not in the Americas; the only one is in the San José Church,” he stated, adding that Catedral de San Juan Bautista is among the oldest in the Americas.

Meanwhile, Sara Noemí Barceló from the Old San Juan Free Walking Tour noted, “We kick off at Plaza Colón.” The tour is conducted in English since the majority of tourists are from the United States; they are guided through the downtown area receive explanations of its architectural and historical importance.

“We start walking down Calle San Francisco, then we go down Callejón de la Capilla, where I talk about the cobblestones. The blue cobblestones were imported from Liverpool, England, and were laid in 1891. Each cobblestone measures about five inches, and the top part is slag, which is a metal residue,” she explained, emphasizing that her tour operates on a tips-only basis.

She stressed that Old San Juan had seven entrances, although some argue that there are three main entrances: Puerta de San Juan, Puerta de San Justo, and Puerta de Tierra.

Visitors can appreciate details of Paseo la Princesa, La Rogativa, Parque de las Palomas, Capitolio, and other places included in the both tours around Old San Juan.

The tour of the capital can also include a glimpse of the picturesque neighborhood of La Perla, El Escambrón beach, Laguna del Condado, Ocean Park Beach, the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, and other numerous options that will make your visit so enjoyable that you will always want to return.

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