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Exploring the Flavorful World of ‘tacolaos’ at Hijos del Josco

This establishment has successfully created an original flavor using fried bacalaíto batter 

April 24, 2024 - 11:00 PM

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This content was published more than 8 months ago.
The Hijos del Josco restaurant in Utuado is famous for its taco tortillas, which are made from a mixture of bacalaíto batter. (WANDA LIZ VEGA)

Lee la historia en español aquí.

Utuado.- Mexican-style tacos with Puerto Rican flavor and a twist of fried bacalaíto. This is what the Hijos del Josco restaurant in Utuado specializes in. They call it ‘tacolaos’ and they make between 900 and 1,000 tortillas to satisfy their customers.

What started as a chinchorro (small food kiosk) for Mr. José Soto Ruiz to provide for his family in the 1970s has now evolved into the favorite spot for customers who enjoy good food in a friendly atmosphere of camaraderie and culture.

“I discovered it myself while looking for a way to have my own business. I registered it initially as ‘El Guariquitén,’ which translates to a small hut or poor man’s home. And later, I changed it to ‘Hijos del Josco’ after a spirited discussion among friends about the work of Abelardo Díaz Alfaro (El Josco). Then I realized that we are hijos del josco,” said the owner.

Soto Ruiz started his business in 1977. Initially, he sold only hamburgers, fries, and carne frita (fried pork). He furnished his small dining space with wooden logs and barrels as tables. As the space began to evolve with this rustic style, he introduced the now-famous “tacolaos” to his menu.

“It’s a Mexican-style tortilla infused with Puerto Rican flavor and the uniqueness of fried bacalaíto. I make the tortilla myself, no one else does it. It’s a combination of ground codfish, wheat flour, and other local ingredients that give it that distinct Puerto Rican taste that makes it different from Mexican tortillas. “This is a Puerto Rican tortilla,” explained Sayil Soto Toledo, daughter of the founder and manager of the restaurant.

José Soto, founder of Hijos del Josco restaurant in Utuado, with his daughter Sayil Soto, the establishment’s manager, and grandson Mauro Morales.
José Soto, founder of Hijos del Josco restaurant in Utuado, with his daughter Sayil Soto, the establishment’s manager, and grandson Mauro Morales. (WANDA LIZ VEGA)

“A father’s originality combined with a daughter’s culinary expertise,” added Soto Ruiz. They also serve ‘El nacholao,’ which are chips that are also made with the delicious fried bacalaíto dough. “Originally, they were made with chicken and beef with cabbage, tomato, and nothing else. Over time, we have been making them with fish, dorado fillets, steak, and adding some sauces and pico de gallo. Sometimes we make them with octopus, and we will soon include one with pork for the Christmas season,” the young woman highlighted.

Although there are variations of the “tacolao,” diners favor the ones made with fish, steak, and chicken. “Every week, I make between 900 to 1,000 balls of dough entirely by hand. The dough is kneaded using a small bottle. Between preparing the dough, shaping the balls, stretching them out, and then heating them so they don’t stick and are ready to fry, it takes a lot of time” highlighted the chef, emphasizing that this process takes between 5 to 10 hours.

The Hijos del Josco restaurant in Utuado offers a cozy atmosphere in the mountains.
The Hijos del Josco restaurant in Utuado offers a cozy atmosphere in the mountains. (WANDA LIZ VEGA)

Also featured on the menu is the signature dish “El Guariquitén”, a burger crafted from locally sourced meat, seasoned with spices, topped with cheese, bacon, pico de gallo, and lettuce, served on a brioche bun with the customer’s choice of side.

“They also request ‘La Lomita’ and ‘La Montaña’ a lot. These are platter-style dishes meant for sharing. ‘La Montaña’ has steak, chicken, and pork, all sautéed. Those are the three meats of the mountain. ‘La Lomita’ includes steak and chicken, accompanied by two sides such as tostones (fried green plantains), french fries, mofongo, sweet potatoes, rice with codfish, or the rice of the day,” Soto Toledo detailed.

During weekends, the atmosphere at ‘Hijos del Josco’ comes alive with the sounds of local artists, bohemian nights, and occasional poetry or art events. The restaurant is open Thursday to Sunday, from 12:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. For more information, call 787-201-1218.

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