Lee la historia en español aquí.

Inspired by African customs and traditions, Marta Beatriz de León, a designer from Carolina, lets her creativity run free by creating clothing and accessories that have become very popular for their unique and colorful style.

This artist produces a wide array of garments, such as shirts, kufi hats, bows and hats for men, dresses, bags, ancestral necklaces, Zulu crowns, and turbans for women. All of her pieces are set apart by their essence of African culture.

“My art represents us proud descendants of Africans who feel empowered by carrying our heritage in the shape of clothing. Africa is colorful, vibrant; it’s joy and flavor,” expressed De León, whose interest in sewing came out of wanting to make clothes for her family, but her talent ended being part of a cultural movement that she did not see coming.

It all started in 1992, when De León decided to take a haute couture and design course with renowned designer Carlota Alfaro.

“All I knew was what I learned in home economics in school, but I wanted to sew for my personal use and satisfaction. I had a scholarship for two years at that academy, and with what I learned there, I made my daughter’s quinceañera dress, as well as her wedding dress, but I never meant to sell any garments; it was all for personal use,” the 73-year-old woman recalled.

Later, while working as a family and community technician at the non-profit organization Aspira de Puerto Rico, she was given the opportunity to offer workshops on making “aprons and other simple things.” Thus she was heading, without realizing, to becoming a clothing artisan.

It was not until she retired from her Government job in 2008, that De León decided to make her dream of taking a baking course come true. However, instead of putting on a hair net, she chose to make herself a hat that matched her apron. It was a hit, and people started asking her to make pieces to sell.

“I knew Mimi Román, who had a very beautiful African style and always commissioned pieces from me. She was one of my models. She said that I should become a certified fabric artisan, and she told me in a way that motivated me. She suggested that I became well prepared,” he said.

“So in 2009 I went there (Industrial Development Company) with my things, and I was nervous because people said that they did not certify fabric (artisans). The thing is that the evaluator arrived, and the first thing he did was to put on one of my hats. I had put beads on that hat, and I passed the evaluation on the first visit,” said the artisan, who also decided to get certified in the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture (ICP) on 2021.

By 2010, De León was teaching sewing courses at the Agricultural Extension Service. “The director, Marilú Florí, asked me to venture out and teach some sewing classes, and I went for it... I am very grateful to Marilú because I was there from 2010 to 2012,” she said.

It was through Florí that the artisan had the opportunity to participate in a Colectivo Ilé project at the University of Puerto Rico.

“They invited me to those Colectivo Ilé workshops, and they brought a black woman from New Orleans. Her name was Kimberly, and she gave us some techniques on how to put on different styles of turbans. There, they taught us that turbans aren’t meant to be worn to cover one’s hair because it looks ugly, nor to clean the house. The turban is an accessory meant to complement your wardrobe. Also, in the past, slaves carried many things in their turbans, such as food; it also protects you, empowers you, and shows where you come from,” declared De León.

Since then, De León has not only dedicated herself to promoting African culture through her pieces, but also to educate and to serve as an ambassador of our roots through her talent.

“I learned a lot about racism, about myths, I became aware of many things. I also learned about the symbols in African fabrics, because every single one of them has a meaning. I dove in, and everything I do, for the most part, is this type of clothing. I sew regular clothes, but it’s not my strong suit. I am immersed in this movement. This is my niche, and I enjoy it,” said the artist.

For information, you can access her Instagram page: Costurera 1949, or call 787-463-0047.