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San Germán is home to two gems of ecclesiastical architecture

The centuries-old churches Porta Coeli and San Germán Auxerre Parish confirm the significance of this town for the southwestern region of the island

April 22, 2024 - 12:21 AM

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This content was published more than 8 months ago.
San Germán Auxerre Parish’s facade in the town plaza. (Wanda Liz Vega Dávila)

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San Germán.- Thousands of visitors come to San Germán in search of religious art housed by Porta Coeli, an architectural gem that seems to have overcome the barrier of time. The ecclesiastical structure stands firmly since its construction in 1606.

The iconic church, whose name originates from Latin “Gate of Heaven,” was actually Convento de Santo Domingo de Porta Coeli. It was the residence of the Dominican friars who founded the order in Puerto Rico with the aim of spreading their Christian faith on the island.

The 416-year-old building is notable for its elevated location, where visitors can enjoy panoramic view of the “founder of towns” (name given to San Germán). To access the museum, which is affiliated with the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture (IPRC,), visitors must climb approximately 24 steps.

“We have a collection of wood carvings and paintings dating from the 16th to the 20th century, originating from Spain, Mexico, and Puerto Rico,” stated Damaris Meléndez Ferrer, a tourist guide from the IPRC.

“The most important piece in our collection is the altarpiece located at the altar. It was crafted by the Espada family and is the last fully preserved Baroque-style altarpiece remaining in Puerto Rico. Originally, it was made for San Germán de Auserre Parish, which is also a historic building and was reconstructed in the 18th century. In 1930, it was transferred here,” she explained during a tour of the historic premises.

“Some people attribute the altarpiece to José Campeche, but it’s a fact that hasn’t been verified. We also have hand-painted Dutch roses with biblical illustrations, as well as two Baroque-style paintings: the figures of the Archangel San Rafael and the Our Lady of Sorrows, dated from the 18th century,” she added.

Meléndez showed the oldest piece in the collection a Spanish reliquary bust dating back to the 16th century, and one of the few remaining in Puerto Rico from that era.

“It’s known as a reliquary bust because it contains a relic within the chest; in this case, we’re talking about a piece of bone. The next piece is a carving made in San Germán by the Espada family around 1760; a renowned family dedicated to crafting this type of piece, akin to an altarpiece. While there was a tradition of engravers, the identities of numerous artisans remain unknown,” she highlighted.

“We also have paintings, some of which were found in the altar area when the current altarpiece was installed. We know that these were painted in Puerto Rico before 1775,” she maintained.

Furthermore, the building served as the first educational center in the western part of Puerto Rico for 300 years, where Dominican friars taught boys from the community to read and write.

She also emphasized that “among the least-altered elements in the building are the 12 columns (each representing an apostle) that are made from ausubo wood, which are so robust they resemble cement. Basically, they have undergone treatment and staining.”

“During the last restoration efforts in 1995, the entire roof was replaced, along with some work on the doors and windows. They used masonry, lime, brick, and sand. Because the convent was destroyed by an earthquake in the 19th century, the its last remnant is a brick wall,” she remarked.

The interior of the Porta Coeli church is a museum of significant historical value.
The interior of the Porta Coeli church is a museum of significant historical value. (Wanda Liz Vega Dávila)

“Porta Coeli is a stronghold for San Germán. People come seeking out this ancient building that once was a church, now converted into a museum of religious art since 1960 and managed by the IPRC. Visitors from China, Russia, Malaysia, Poland, the Netherlands, and other places have been fascinated by the structure,” she affirmed.

San Germán de Auxerre Parish

Another of the most visited ecclesiastical structures in San Germán is Iglesia San Germán de Auxerre, which was erected in 1573 with wood and a thatched roof, making it even older than Porta Coeli.

According to the town’s historian, Ramón Vázquez Rodríguez, “this has been the town’s church since San Germán’s founding, and it’s the only church that existed in the San Germán District. People from Ponce, Aguadilla, and Camuy used to come here because there were no other churches.”

Its emblematic beauty is tied to around 14 marble altars and the colorful stained glass windows added in 1993 during the celebration of its 500th anniversary.

“It’s the only church in Puerto Rico with 14 marble altars; in addition to that, it has the largest lamp in America. It has a visual effect where, at first glance, it looks like one thing, but upon closer inspection, it reveals another. For example, the ceiling has a faux three-dimensional effect with wooden squares,” he emphasized.

“Additionally, it has the highest number of images in America; it houses a small chapel for the baptistery on the right-hand side and the chapel of Santo Cristo on the left-hand side. It’s a fully colonial church. The paintings and images offer a serene and tranquil experience the moment you enter,” he concluded.

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